Growing Grapes, Ontario Zone 4/5
Yesterday the roses from Palatine and my first order of grapes from Vesey’s came in.
Such excitement!
That, of course, sent me down the rabbit hole in researching best practices and sorting out the plan for how, and where to place my grape vines.
The roses are already accounted for in the new rose garden that I’m in the middle of preparing. I had laid out cardboard and mulch last year and killed off much of the grass, but then because of a change in the plan, as per usual, I had to do a bit of rejiggering.
Grapes
I’ve been making fruit and herb wines for a couple of years now and recently ordered some fruit trees and bushes to add to the fedge I’m putting behind the rose garden. Grapes seemed to be a logical continuance.
I added some of the wild grapes to my brews last year and they added the loveliest colour and tang. They also made a delicious grape jam. I had ordered some fruit from the Niagara region during canning season - peaches, nectarines, plums and there was a type of grape I had never heard of called Canadice. They were surprisingly spectacular.
I am intensely against mushy grapes and will only buy and eat red grapes that are crisp. They always stay in the fridge and once they get mushy they get put into some sort or preserve - fresh rosemary, garlic and grape jam is amazing on fresh bread with soft cheese.
These grapes, though, were different. I actually didn’t mind them when they got mushy. In fact they were delicious in every single way!!!
So I looked around to see if I could find the vines to grow my own and Veseys had them available for purchase in Ontario. Delight of delights! I ordered two just to be on the safe side and waited patiently for them to come in.
I also recently ordered several more varieties from Whiffletree Farm and Nursery in Elora.
Total grape varieties:
Findings
Average spacing of vines is 6 feet apart and in rows of 8 feet.
Each vine will produce 1 gallon of wine/year.
They prefer rocky, limestone soil which allows for good drainage.
Mulch must be avoided because it cools the soil and grape vines need warm roots.
Rocks on the other hand absorb the sun’s heat and radiate it into the soil to warm the roots.
Graped should be placed running North/South so that they have maximum exposure to sunlight.
If possible, a location on a hill with a 3% slope to the south is ideal.
Avoid frost pockets and low lying areas.
In order to prevent disease and frost damage lots of air circulation is preferred.
Roses are a good indicator plant for disease and pest problems. They will show damage before the vines so you have time to combat the problem.
In the beginning
Soak vines overnight before planting to ensure they are well hydrated before planting.
Make sure your hole is free draining and large enough to spread the root system out completely.
Vines should be planted with the lowest bud just above the soil surface.
The soil needs to be warm and moist when the vine is planted for optimal initial growth.
Allow the plant to just grow the first year to get lots of sunlight and establish a good, strong root system.
Establish your support system - trellis, existing fence, arbor, pergola, stakes and wires - and add the lowest wire/support.
At the end of the first growing season choose the strongest cane and remove the rest. Stake the vine “trunk” and train it up the stake.
Remove all secondary shoots from your new trunk and shorten it to 3 or 4 buds.
Watering
For the first year your vine will need about 1 inch of water per week.
This equals 5 gallons over a 3x3 foot area.
The trunk should be established by the end of the second year’s growth.
Your vine no longer needs watering at this point unless there is a prolonged, severe drought.
Fertilizing
Compost spread around the base of the vine or watering with compost tea is recommended for the first 2 or 3 years to establish a strong, vigorous root system.
It most likely will not need fertilizer after this unless you notice specific deficiencies.
Pruning
I've decided on the spur method of pruning for my Canadice grapes because of where I am growing them.
For the other varieties, I’ll have to see when I sort out where they’re going to live.
When pruning, the bulk of the previous year’s growth is removed leaving only 4-6 canes or spurs.
Grapes don't grow on old wood, they grow on new shoots.
If cane pruning, these are reduced in length according to the vigor of the vine.
Canes selected should originate from the trunk, or as close to it as possible.
Choose canes that are pencil sized.
For spurs, I’m training two main “branches”, or cordons, off of my trunk which will produce spurs where the new growth will occur.
This way I can have the vines growing along the supports on my greenhouse a la Monthy Don.
I’m hoping this will improve heat, lengthen the season and provide wasp and bird protection.
I also came across the “spare parts approach” used in cold climates as good maintenance practice.
You allow multiple trunks of different ages to grow, just in case.
You also retain 2-3x more buds and, in spring, remove the appropriate number for good summer growth.
Vines can be hilled or surrounded with straw to protect the roots and graft. You can also wrap the vines in burlap.
Two years ago I bought a baco noir vine from a local nursery. The first year it didn’t like where I put it and this past year it's alright. I have to find a place protected from the wind but with good sunlight, not easy on this property.
My windbreak is growing, slowly, but we still get crazy wind here.
Because the big ash trees at the front are gone there is a new area to grow in with full sun. I don’t want to grow anything that will stain against the house - white, vinyl siding. And I want to preserve my view of the mountain for painting and enjoying.
But I have plans.
